try to deactivate the glsl shaders - what is your gfx card?
Deactivating the glsl shaders brings things back into the light, so it's playable again, but now anything that was black looks like it glows in the dark...
Losing the shaders also upped the frame rate dramatically. Thanks for that tip Mattn!
My gfx card is an nVidia Quadro FX 540. I've just done a search for glsl support on this hardware and
nVidia says that an NV43GL based card just won't cut it. Damn
I wonder if there's a way to ask OpenGL if the hardware supports this feature so shaders could be disabled and the option to use them greyed out in the video options menu if the support isn't there?